Belmont House Condition Report

Hello,
so as you all know I've been doing a project for a nursing home. I just finished doing a report on the condition of Belmont House. Thomas William O’Grady was a resident of Belmont house in 1814. He was a local clerk of the peace in Castleconnell, County Limerick.  The house was valued at £28 at the time. Griffith’s valuation it was occupied by John White who held it from Thomas O’Grady. George Sampson moves into Belmont house in the 1870s.
There are 8 components a building structure for Belmont House
1. Roof
2. Stairs
3. Foundation
4. Beams & Slabs
5. Columns
6. Walls
7. Plinth
8. Lintels

1. Roof
The roof of the Belmont house is sloped to help with the weather conditions. It forms the topmost component of a building structure and it covers the top face of the building. (The Constructor, 2020)
2. Stairs
The stairs of the Belmont house are wooden they need to be repaired as the stairs are deteriorated. The space occupied by a stair is called the stairway. A stair is a sequence of steps that connects three floors in Belmont’s house.  (The Constructor, 2020)
3. Foundation
A foundation is a structural unit that holds the load from the structure to the underlying soil. This is the first structural unit to be constructed for any building construction. A good foundation prevents settlement of the building. (The Constructor, 2020)
4. Beams & Slabs
Beams and slabs are placed horizontally in the structure of the building. For more than one story house the beam transfers the load coming from the floor above the slab which is in turn transferred to the columns. (The Constructor, 2020)
5. Columns
Columns are placed vertically in the construction of the building above the ground level. Columns are usually two types one is architectural columns and second structural columns. Architectural columns are constructed to improve the building’s aesthetics and structural column takes the load from the slab above transfers safety to the foundation. (The Constructor, 2020)
6. Walls
Walls are placed vertically to support the roof. Walls provide an enclosure and protect against rain, sunshine, wind, etc. Openings are provided in the walls for ventilation and access to the building. (The Constructor, 2020)
7. Plinth 
The plinth is constructed above the ground level. It is a cement-mortar layer lying between the substructure and the superstructure.  (The Constructor, 2020)
8. Lintels
Lintels are constructed above the wall openings like windows and doors. These structures support the weight of the wall coming over the opening. Normally lintels are constructed by reinforced cement concrete, however, in residential buildings lanterns can be constructed from bricks or concrete. (The Constructor, 2020)


Below I've listed any repair that needs to be done.

Sound remedial treatments and repairs:

The Internal Walls in the Basement, Ground Floor & First Floor

Water damaged walls

Before beginning repair to the walls that have been damaged by water, need to locate and stop the source of the leak. The first step to making repairs is to remove all the damaged material. This may include peeling paint, crumbling plaster coats, all the bubbling, and any degrading lath. The second step is to repair the water damaged plaster wall is to remove the damaged plaster. Use a stiff brush to remove any loose plaster particles and then vacuum. Using water and sponge the surrounding area should be washed and then allow the water damaged plaster wall to dry out completely. (Help, 2020)

Using oil-based primer-sealer to block residual contamination and bleeding of stains. Using joint compound and apply in several thin coats. Spread the compound, skimming off any excess, when its dry sand to a level and even the surface. Continue this process as many times as necessary to make a long-lasting and invisible repair. (Porters Cleaning, 2020)

When the coat is dry and sanded if there is any excess dust it needs to be a wipe down with a  damp cloth and prime patch as before. When it’s dry then apply the paint. (Porters Cleaning, 2020)

To the larger areas to repair use a long, tin board like a piece of lattice moulding to go over the whole area at once. Rest the board on the surrounding surface and drag it across the wet mud a couple of times to smooth out the high points in overall repair. (Help, 2020)

Mould

Mildew is a surface type of mould. Other types of mould cause rot in the house. Remove mildew from wood when its probe the suspect area with a screwdriver or other sharp tool. If the wood is soft or crumbles the fungi have taken hold and rot has begun. (Family Handy Man, 2020)

Most of the mould can be scrubbed away with the bleach or the mould cleaner solution. However sometimes the mould grows and spreads in places is not visible or noticeable until the surface staining, mushy drywall or detect smell. (Family Handy Man, 2020)

When removing mould concentrations or perform any black mould removal covering more than a few square feet. Before cleaning the mould, one should wear appropriate PPE. (Family Handy Man, 2020)

Seal off the damaged area from the rest of the house. Open up mouldy walls. Pry off baseboards and trim from contaminated areas with a pry and block of wood. Probe heavily stained or moisture-swollen walls using a screwdriver to discover and open moisture damage and hidden mould in the insulation and wall framing. (Family Handy Man, 2020)

The walls need to be open to get the mould growing inside. Cut the drywall back beyond the obvious damage to find the mould and let the wall dry out. Mist the mouldy drywall and insulation with the pump sprayer to avoid spreading mould spores. Double-bag mouldy material in heavy dusty plastic bags and tie them shut. Where the material is been rotted, remove the material and replace the studs and wall sheathing. (Family Handy Man, 2020)

Scrub the surface mould stains from walls and wood trim with bleach or mould cleaner to kill the mould. Use a soft brush and work until signs of the mould disappear. After scrubbing the surface, simply allow the bleach solution to continue to penetrate the surface and dry. Set out dehumidifiers and new fans to dry the now-cleaned areas for at least three days, then check them for mould. If there are any traces of mould, repeat the process by cleaning with mould cleaner or bleach. (Family Handy Man, 2020)

When the mould has been eliminated, seal the wood surfaces with pigmented shellac like BIN or an oil-based primer like KILZ. Repaint cleaned wall surfaces with regular latex paint that contains a mildewcide to help to stop future growth. Then install new insulation and drywall and nail the trim back on.  (Family Handy Man, 2020)

Rotten Wood in the Walls

Wood rot inside walls is typically caused by water. The problem that was causing the wood to rot in the walls is that there are holes in the roof that is causing the wood to rot. This will ensure that moisture does not continue to build up and damage the new repairs. Removing rotted lumber and other materials is important as dry rot will spread to surrounding woo and the rotted wood will attract insects and other pests causing even bigger damage. (SFGATE, 2020)

Look for wet spots along the wall where is suspected damage. Mould on the surface of the wall near the rotted area is another clue to rot.  Cut drywall or plaster to expose frames of the wall where it is suspected to rot. This allows for the visual inspection area and improves circulation, drying the dampened area and improves circulation, drying the dampened area. Probe suspected rot with a fine pointed tool, such as am awl. Solid pieces may exhibit some signs of water damage without needed replacement. Replace any wood that the probe easily pierces into over 1/8-inch deep. (SFGATE, 2020)

Resetting the Wall

Reset the position of the wall before removing or replacing any parts. Place a level against the face of the wall vertically to determine if the wall is plumb, if not, tip the top or bottom out to canter the bubble in the level. Measure the distance between the level and wall. A measurement of less than ½-inch in either direction is acceptable. (SFGATE, 2020)

Support the overhead weight of the roof or floor above with a wooden beam, supported on posts fitted into screw jacks. Raise the jacks until the beams are snug, then raise just a bit more to take the weight off the wall. (SFGATE, 2020)

Cut angled wood blocks at 22-1/2 degrees from 4-by4-inch posts. Nail them to the floor about 4 feet from the wall. Set screw jacks on the angle cut blocks to move the wall in whichever direction needed until its level. (SFGATE, 2020)

Replacing the Roof

Remove all the rotted boards where it’s possible. The boards that cannot be removed from rotted sections must be cut out. (SFGATE, 2020)

Cut boards of the same thickness and width as the boards are rot from. They should be long enough to span the cut section and extending onto good wood 12 inches above and below the cut.  Cut and install new boards of the same dimensions as the original boards that have been removed. Reinforce the wall at the top and bottom by installing aluminium hurricane brackets at the top and bottom of replaced or repaired pieces. (SFGATE, 2020)

Finishing the Wall

Release the jacks slowly, allowing the wall to settle into its new position gradually. Replace the drywall or plaster over the repaired area. Sand and paint the repaired area to match the surrounding wall. (SFGATE, 2020)

The Floors in the Basement, Ground Floor and First Floor

Rotted Wood

Remove the floor covering to reveal the rooting floor and the surrounding subfloor. Pull up any wall or floor trim that prevents flooring removal. Remove the softest part of the rotten area. Enlarge the cut-out area to include al the rotted wood, then extend past the rotten area to the next joist on either side. Avoid cutting into a floor joist at all costs, as this weakens the floor and the surrounding structure. (SF Rotted Floor, 2020)

Square the opening to ensure the corners are square and the sides are straight. End the sides parallel to the joists directly over the center of the joists. This allows the replacement floor patch to sit on top of the joist as well as provide proper support. Examine the exposed floor joists to ensure they are in good shape. If the material is damaged cut 2-inch-thick boards to run the length of the softened area plus another 2 or 3 feet on either end. Run additional 2inch thick boards, one on either side of the opening, perpendicular to and between the joists. Cut the boards to fit between the joists and either toenail the boards to the joists from above or drive the nails through the joist into the board ends if working from below. (SF Rotted Floor, 2020)

Measure and cut replacement plywood to cover the exposed floor framework, Use plywood of the same thickness as the existing subfloor if possible. Run a bead of construction adhesive down the length of each exposed joist or board. Set the replacement plywood in place, fitting more than one piece as necessary. Hang new trim on the floor, especially when transitioning between flooring pieces. (SF Rotted Floor, 2020)

Damaged or cracked tiles

Before repairing the tiles make sure that the area is been cleaned. Apply oil-based primer to the crack with a small paintbrush. Apply the primer in a thin layer and only to the crack.  Allow the primer to dry for at least two hours, then apply a coat of high gloss oil-based paint that matches the colour to the crack.  Squeeze equal amounts of each chamber of a two-part- clear marine epoxy out onto a piece of cardboard. Dip a narrow paintbrush into the epoxy and dab the epoxy directly into the crack. Leave the epoxy to set. The tiles that are damaged completely need to be replaced with the new ones. (SFGATE Tiles, 2020)

The Ceiling in the Basement, Ground Floor and First Floor

Cracks (Plaster damaged plaster with new plaster)

Appropriate PPE should be worn such as safety goggles and a dust mask. Carefully cut black the damaged area, removing all loose material, unit reach sound plaster. Dampen the laths and spread a thin coat of bonding undercoat plaster. Score the surface of the plaster in a diamond pattern with the side of the trowel to create a key for the next coat. Allow it to set and then apply a second coat of undercoat plaster. Scrape it back 2mm below the surface and lightly score it. When this has set, put on a finishing coat of plaster to bring it down level with the rest of the ceiling.  (Ceiling, 2020)

Hole in the Ceiling

Locate the side of the joist of the hole with a stud detector. Next draw a line along each joist, half-way across its width, with a straightener and pencil. Then join them up to mark a square or rectangle around the damaged area.

Cut the laths and plasterboard inside the marked area with a pad and remove any protruding nails in the joists with a claw hammer. Drive nails into the noggins at an angle to secure them to the joists. Using plasterboard that’s slightly thinner than the depth of the ceiling, cut a piece the same size as the hole. Fix it in place with plasterboard nails along the joist and noggins.  Fill the join with bonding undercoat plaster. When it’s dry spread multi-finish plaster over the patch to bring it to level with the rest of the ceiling. (Ceiling, 2020)

Mould

Using bleach or anti-mould sprays remove the mould from the ceiling. Examine the ceiling material as the mould might come back quickly. The effected portion of the ceiling might have to be removed and replaced. Using the paint scraper remove the paint. If the ceiling is flaking using a paint scraper the flacking should be removed first. After the mould is been cleaned using chemicals cleaning with the brush or the sponge.

Sand down the area of the ceiling that has been affected by the mould to remove any lingering traces and provide a good base for the new paint. Paint the ceiling with a waterproof paint as it prevents mould from growing back. The ceiling needs to be insulated. (Wiki How Ceiling, 2020)

The Skirting in the Basement, Ground Floor and First Floor

All the skirting needs to be replaced as it’s been completely damaged.

The Windows and the Window frames in the Basement, Ground Floor and First Floor

The windows should be replaced as they are old, the window frames should be replaced as it is not replaceable.

Internal and Exterior Doors

The internal and exterior doors should be replaced as they are all and let the cold air in.

Roof

The roof should be fixed and insulated.

Gutters

Gutters need to be replaced as it’s been damaged and its not replaceable.

Stairs

Stairs should be replaced as it is very old, and it’s been badly damaged.

Protection of Structure:

Walls against moisture and dampness

Good insulation in the house.

Loft and wall insulation help to create warmer spaces, and properly fitted double glazing will help to avoid misty windows as the inner panel of glass is insulated against the cold air outdoors. Maintain a constant temperature within the building. This helps to avoid sudden rises and dips in the temperature when condensation could develop. (Dealing with damp, 2020)

Provide a route for moisture to escape from the house will help minimise condensation. Remove excess moisture, for example using a dehumidifier will help to remove excess moisture from the air. Choose moisture-resistant paint or wallpaper. Fix any leaks straight away when they appear. Check the plumbing and the roof. (Dealing with damp, 2020)

Windows and Doors

Windows and doors are common vulnerable sites for water leakage.

The image from Google images, accessed on 06/04/2020 showing the triple glazed window.

Roof

The roof should be well insulated to prevent any moisture or dampness.

Class-A fiberglass or cement-tile roof coverings should be used in designated high-hazard areas on the new construction, additions or repairs. Eave-end gaps in tile roofs should be fire-stopped with cement mortar or metal bird stops. (Roof, 2020)

Replace any shingles that are missing or in poor condition is a quick and inexpensive project that can extend the life of the roof. (Home Tips, 2020)

Proper Drainage

If the water is not properly diverted away from the house it can affect the foundation. When a foundation is damaged by poor drainage, it’s supporting structure is directly affected. A damaged foundation can cause a home to shift, lean and sink into the ground. Cracks can appear on the exterior and interior walls, and in the worst-case scenario, portions of the building could collapse. (Structure Foundation, 2020)

Waterproof the exterior of the building

Signs of water damage on interior walls could be due to water entering through holes in the exterior walls. Most common exterior siding, including wood siding, aluminium siding, and cedar shingles, need to be painted in order to protect the building, Paint seals and protects the siding against sleet, snow, and rain. (Home Tips, 2020)

Gutters

Cleaning gutters regularly can protect the building from water damage, if the gutters are full of leaves and not angled properly to funnel water to the downspout, then water will run down the side of the house and collect at the base, which could put the foundation at risk. (Home Tips, 2020)

Downspouts

Functioning gutters send water out through the downspout, which should funnel the water away from the building. If the downspout doesn’t extend far enough, then it could instead be funnelling water directly into a puddle at the bottom of the building. (Home Tips, 2020)